Bali's claim to fabric
fame is a weft 'ikat' cloth, called 'endek'. Some 'endek' are made of
silk, but the cheaper cotton and rayon are more widely used. Semi-mechanised
looms produce great quantities in Denpasar and Gianyar, but some of the
finest 'endeks' comes from Sidemen in Karangasem and Gelgel in Klungkung.
The Balinese are the only weavers in Southeast Asia to master double 'ikat'
weaving in the form of 'geringsing' made in the ancient village of Tenganan.
A masterpiece of Balinese craftsmanship, both the hand spun cotton warp
and weft threads are tied and dyed with the same patterns before the cloth
is woven. Special skills and great eye for detail are therefore required.
'Songket' is a brocade cloth with gold, silver, or coloured weft threads
forming intricate designs on the surface of the cloth. They tend to be
heavy and thick textiles due to the weaving technique that is done from
the back of the cloth. In the old days, 'songket' could only be worn by
aristocrats, but today these expensive fabrics are available to anyone
who can afford them. The main centres for 'songket' weaving are Gelgel
in Klungkung, Sidemen in Karangasem, Singaraja in Buleleng, and Negara
in Jembrana.
'Kain Prada' textiles are decorated with gold designs of flowers or birds.
The patterns are outlined on plain coloured cloth, and the area spread
with glue to hold fast gold-leaf. Today, cheaper gold paint is used, glue
is often silk-screened onto the fabric, and artificial gold-leaf is applied.
'Kain Prada' is mostly worn by dancers and participants in religious ceremonies.
The cloth is also used for making ceremonial parasols and dance fans,
and used for decorating shrines. Now, most 'Kain Prada' is silk-screened
on polyester in Sukawati, Gianyar, and in Satria, Klungkung. |